| | | Initially I just bought a new latch but decided to go a different route instead | | | | | | The new latch is well built and heavy duty. I am impressed. | | |
| | | | Red+Black is for unlocking. White+Blue is for checknig lock status | | | | | Can be manually unlocked with either the left screw or the bottom lever | | |
| | | Will replace original shaft on left with the new roller latch on right | | | | |
| | | | I ended up cutting down the sides even more | | | |
| | | | | Trimmed down the metal more. Still far more substantial than original bolt | | |
| | | Bolt is contacting hole in body. Had to expand the hole in the body | | | | |
| | | | Time to make a mounting bracket. I start with some 1 | | | |
| | | | | | This was a little on the small side. For the other latch, I made the mount longer | |
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| | | | I welded some nuts on the inside of the square tube | | | |
| | | | | | Roughly mounted in place to check the location and operation | |
| | | Bolt will need to be shortened substantially | | | | | I welded on nuts of the same size as the OEM bolts so I could reuse the rear bolt and rubber cap | | | | | | I made the left bracket longer. No need for it to be short like the right side | |
| | | I decided to weld on a part so I could keep the original trunk release lever | | | | | | | The nut welded on is simply to hold a bicycle cable adjuster | |
| | | The cable will pull back on the screw which manually releases the lock | | | | | Bead blasted and ready for powder coat | | | | | Went with Eastwood Mirror Red powder coat | | | | | Powder coating always makes my fabricated parts look so much better | |
| | | | | Finally cleaned all the old grease and gunk from the body | | | | | New latch installed in mount and ready to install on car | |
| | | | You should make your mount longer so you don't pinch the wire I have | | | |
| | | I installed an SAE cable on the batter and ran it out the trunk floor. Just in case... | | | | | I can charge the battery without openin the trunk. Unecessary but nice. | | | | | I added a couple more leads, this time for the keyless entry I will mount on the battery | | | | | That looks sexy. Maybe not a factory job, but certainly not ugly either | |
| | | I even powder coated the fender washers | | | | | I can't believe how cheap keyless entry systems are now. This was only $20 | | | | | One regret, I should have found one with keyfobs with recessed buttons | | |
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| | | My emergency release cable | | | | | On the new latch, this lever already had a hole in it. Perfect. | | | | | I ran the wire down and out the trunk floor. I am being overly paranoid. | | |
| | | Oh and I changed the oil while too | | | | |
| | | | | | Keeping the original cable operated trunk release means splitting the cable | |
| | | This Porkchop branded bicycle cable splitter is perfect | | | | | Original latches were spring loaded. New ones aren't. So you have to add a spring to the splitter | | | | | I just cut some random spring that had about enough tension according to my calibrated hand | | |
| | | | Just cut the original cable, run into the splitter, and screw it down | | | |
| | | | Finding a spot to mount the splitter took me a whil | | | | | | I probably should have fabricated a mount for the splitter on my latch mount. Zip strip to the rescu | |
| | | | The relay that lets the keyless entry system energize for a split second but operate the lock | | | | | Which takes 2 full seconds for its cycle | | |
| | | | | 3D printed project box to hold that mess. | | |
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