Vehicles

650 - assembling new top end

I got the 650 running previously and was driving it around the neighborhood. As soon as I started it though it was apparent that a pretty bad rattle was still present. It was certainly coming from the top end so I immediately thought the valve clearance might need to be adjusted. Well I replaced the cam chain, adjusted the valves, and the noise continued.

I took the top end to a shop and the recommended replacing lots of parts, pretty much tearing it down and replacing it all. Not too surprising, they are a business after all. I decided to go with it though because there were some obvious signs of scoring on teh clyinders and the rocker arms had some pretty nasty flat spots. Whats a little more money for the XS650 anyways?

The clyinders are now bored 3 over which means I can only bore them one more time before I will need to get new sleeves or new cylinders altogether. Anyways this time around I used all OEM parts. I am sick of lack luster aftermarket parts. That is easier said then done as rocker arms are long discontinued. Pistons and rings are also discontinued in the size I needed. Thank you ebay.

A friend from work helped me reassemble the bike. The reassembly was not without issue but it went pretty well. I am tired of using Yamabond as a liquid gasket. This time I am using only regular gasket with no extra liquid gasket. During my first rebuild I could not get rid of the oil leaks without using Yamabond on both sides of the gaskets. This makes dissambling the bike later a real pain in the ass. Well during that first rebuild I was using aftermarket Athena gaskets from MikesXS. This time I am using OEM and so I am hoping for better results.

There are a couple areas you have to use a liquid gasket though because there is no real gasket. Instead of using Yamabond there I am trying out Hylomar universal blue. Several forum members swear by it. I couldnt find it in a local shop so I had to buy it online. It was a tad expensive but if it works then its worth it. The important thing is that it seals without ever drying. You are supposed to be able to separate the parts later, then rejoin them and have just as strong of a gasket surface. Its like a sticky note, it stays sticky. Well it went on just fine. Time will tell if it works as well as some claim it does.

Pictures

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new gaskets
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misc new gaskets, washers, o-rings.
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new tail light lens. The old one was cracked and was loose
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several forum members swear by it, this is my first usage
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painted and ready to go
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new rocker arms and adjusting nuts
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old parts
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new valves
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new pistons and rings
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bored 3 over
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yeah, i dropped the cam chain down the center after getting pistons in place, doh
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new carb gasket
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i am explaining something, god knows what
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we made a pretty good mess
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engine back in, exciting stuff
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ignition back in place
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oil filter removed
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pretty dirty, i could clean it or replace it but I would prefer a modern paper filter element
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oil pump is behind that gear, same one that drives the tach
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theres the oil pump, this one looks pretty good but I plan to replace it anways, its cheap
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pre oil pump screen, screen is ripped
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screen needs to be repaired, these stupid things are 70 dollars
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screen repaired and fortified, some screen surface blocked but there is still plenty of surface
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there is some blockage in the oil passage
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it was part of some prior owners pre oil pump screen, go figure
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some other debris, probably a cam chain guide piece
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old pump looks really good and is still in spec, will replace anyways because its cheap
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i put some hlyomar on this surface as well because this gasket it old
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new oil filter from mikes xs, not their biggest fan but this is a modern paper oil filter
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not too ugly. I dought that this will cool the oil much, but every bit helps
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old lense was cracked
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