| | no contact between new rocker arms and springs | | | | distributor mechanical advance can click, but thats not it | |
| choke cable was wearing away paint on vacuum advance | | | problem solved in the most ghetto way possible | | | |
| | verified that the valves are all in line | | | plugs actually look pretty good. These are years old. #1 is hard to get out due to alternator | | | PCV valve removed for testing. If you shake it, it clicks, but this is not THE tick | |
| presumably my modified motor is now low vacuum, hence PCV valve doesn't get much oil to quiet it | | | grabbed PCV valve off my original carb. Cleaned it up. Works fine, but so did the old one | | | PCV valve part number, NoVo 117A83 | | | verified that all lifters spin freely (thank goodness) | |
| | signs of an extremely minor exhaust leak on right side | | | replaced oil and adding more just to confirm was wasn't high flow pump running out of oil in pan | | |
| will go ahead and replace the plugs even though they don't look too bad, NGK BPR6ES | | | | Removed PCV valve and blocked opening in manifold, not the source of the ticking | | |
| high zinc oil, ticking slightly quieter but really no change | | | finally removed alternator to get #1 plug out, looks fine | | | | installed rockers without oil guide plate in case there was rubbing. No change in ticking | |
| of course I adjusted the valves now that the oil return plates were removed | | | did a compression test. much improved since initial rebuild now that parts are broken in | | | | went with the smaller range for the gap, .024 | |
| | | got some rubbing in the valve cover | | | fixed by applying some zip strips to the right side of the coolant pipe | |
| | "fixed" with eletrical tape, no change to ticking noise | | | shrunk valve clearance even further and adjusted per EO/IC method, no change | | |