The faucet in the kitchen sink didn't work great when we bought the RV, then it stopped working completely. I decided to replace it. I went to a box store and picked up a single hole kitchen sink. Turns out that the hole in the sink was too small. No problem, a couple minutes with a grinder solved that.
Then I went to hook up the water lines under the sink. Turns out that my 1977 GMC Motorhome uses polybutylene pipes. I never thought much about the gray plastic water lines in this old RV. I figured at some point the pipes were changed over to some early color of pex. Nope! GMC was ahead of their time when they used this cutting edge plastic pipe in the RV. Most sources say PB pipe was introduced in 1978. Regardless, this stuff was eventually known to fail quickly and without warning. After a bunch of lawsuits in the 1980's no one uses this stuff any more. Granny Smith appears to have the first iteration of the PB pipe because all the fittings are also PB and screw on, rather than clamp on or brass.
The PB pipe will need to be replaced but that is a job for another week. There are places that sell adapters to go from PB to copper or pex. Of course no one had any locally in the 3/8" since I needed. I was going camping the next day and needed water so I ghetto rigged some flexible rubber line in there. Don't judge me. We didn't use the water for drinking, just washing dishes. And of course, without the faucet in place I couldn't turn on the water pump, so I would have not had a toilet or bathroom sink either.
After I got the kitchen faucet in and working I found that the water pump was running regularly, even when no faucets were open. I traced the problem to the water heater. The pressure relief valve was busted and allowed water to trickle out. That trickling water would normally go down a tube, thorugh a bulkhead fitting, and out into a wheel well to fall harmlessly on the ground. Not in Granny Smith though, no. The bulkhead fitting was completely corroded and snapped off. As a result, the rubber hose from the safety valve was just dumping water onto the top of the fiberglass wheel arch. The water then ran under the bathroom floor and into the hallway carpet. What a mess!
I replaced the safety valve and the plumbing so that the water safely drains out the wheel well. Pictures
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| old faucet was completely broken | | | | compression polybutylene fittings, this is a problem | | | can't get PB adapters locally. I just cut off the old faucet supply to keep the old pb adapters | | | | 3/8" polybutylene lines, ugh | | | | | mounting hole is too small | | | now mounting hole has been enlarged | | | the drains are gross too. I will replace them with a bathroom sink drain for now | | | | Not much room under sink for extension, but a few inches is still nice to have | | | | my ghetto adapters to merge polybutylene to 3/8 compression fitting | | | don't judge me. This was not used for drinking water, temporary fix for next day's camping trip | | | | | sunlight visible where bulkhead drain fitting should be | | | tube in foreground was draining onto top of fiberglass wheel arch | | | | | | | | | | | | both of those bulkhead drain fittings are junk | | | | | | | | temporary fix to get safey valve slow leak water draining out of the RV | | | ok, at least water is no longer collecting under the carpet inside the RV | | | the source of the leak was the safety valve | | | | | not shown; reinstalled rubber drain lines | | | topped off coolant tank only to have coolant immediately drain out | | | | had to loosen AC thingy-ma-bob to get coolant tank out | | | | they still make tanks for this RV. Thats cool | | |